Water Management

The water in your tanks is the life blood to keeping your stock alive and well.

It is vital the water quality is maintained with in a set parameter.

The Guppy was always a tough little fish, put into a water vessel and they would find a way to survive and reproduce.

By today's standard this has all changed and they now need as much care to your water quality as Neon's or Discus in order to produce Top Quality Show fish.

This has not put me off keeping these little Jewels more to the point, this has made the hobby more Interesting  for me to take on the challenge ahead.

Many books and Web site reference has been written to give you all the data needed to understand water quality. What I hope to offer is my way of over coming this problem and hope you can use the on line forum to give your experiences in turn assisting each other in improveing the health of your Show fish.

I test my water approx every six weeks to keep track of the pH levels that my local water company provide here in the North East. This can fluctuate but it is usually with in the 7.4 - 7.8 bracket . ( pH refers to potential for hydrogen).  7.0 being Neutral more detailed reference link at the bottom of this page.

I do not take the kH levels (kH refers to concentration of bicarbonate (HCO3) and carbonate (CO3) dissolved in the water. This will assist to buffer the water in your tanks and help maintain a stable pH level. The aim is to have a high kH level above 50 ppm.

I try to avoid putting in too much chemical into my water system, but on some occasions needs must. More recently I have decided to De- Chlorine my water and use a product that will remove both Ammonia, Chlorine including Chloramines. I had believed for many years that pre conditioning the water first ( Storing in a clean Butt, heating to the same temperature of the tanks and aerating for 24-48 hours would remove all gas's and chemical). I was incorrect whilst this process is good practice it will not fully complete the task. Chloramines remain during this process. I do add salt to my tank water this is introduced during water conditioning.

Water changes are a must but without some preparation first it could prove disastrous. Your local water company from time to time need to add chemicals into our drinking water to make it safe for us and in some instances will flush the pipe systems as a clean process. During this if you complete a water change you can incur major losses. If you prepare your water first you just might be able avoid this.

I water change every week completing half of my fish house first week end the other side the next each tank section is therefore completed on a cycle every two weeks at present. I would change more often if I could but time at present will not allow this. I change up 75% on young stock and approx 50% on the Breeders.

A much better way if you have the time is 10% to 20% weekly or more frequent form growing fry.

The temperature should kept even, sharp fluctuations can distress the fish and bring on disease. Ideal Temp 25 - 28 degree Celsius.

My fish room is kept more at the upper level 26-27 Celsius as I like to maintain good growth. I space heat the fish house and use two heaters with a circulating fan to distribute the air evenly. You do not need two heaters I use one as a back up should the other break down.

Please see link to Olaf Deters detailed website on filtration and filter biology. I found this very informative Link